Last week I thought about an old acquaintance, T. Ndede.
This man is a thoroughbred. His name was mentioned in ICC proceedings, so he is
a serious Luo man. Ndede had an ideal he subscribed to a while back, I am not
sure if he still holds onto it. He used to believe there is a way Luos do their
thing and he called it- tim Luo, the
Luo Act. This is what someone later
called The Lifestyle. The other day
it popped up from a very unlikely place.
The other day I was in a matatu going to Kitengela. If you
are not Kenyan, matatu is that necessary evil you have to board to take you
around Nairobi if you are not able to own a second hand Toyota from Japan.
Kitengela is a dusty suburb of Nairobi Metropolis. In Kitengela everything is
dusty, but that is for another day.
I boarded the matatu somewhere on Mombasa Road and got a front
seat next to the driver. I looked for the newspaper on the dashboard but I did
not see any. I looked at the man next to me and I did not think much about him.
Turning round, my eyes scanned the people behind me. That has become my
instincts of late, reading people like book covers.
There was a lady right behind me to the right near the
window. Like many Nairobi women, I couldn’t guess her age but her eyes were on
a newspaper she was reading. I checked the headline, and then turned again to
face in front. Yes I am a Luo and Luos don’t do such things as read other
peoples’ newspapers. My phone was at hand to keep me company, from Facebook to
Twitter and an occasional WhatsApp text just to poke people.
We passed Imara Daima and approached City Cabannas. This is
that place where every Kamba in Kenya has a relative. The driver slowed down.
Hell broke loose. I heard shouts behind me- wewe
wacha kuibia huyu mama. The lady who I could not guess her age was shocked
and lost for words. May be it is because this stranger had just called her- mama (mother). The allegations this man
next to the door was making against the man sitting between him and the mama must have shocked her. In normal
situations, she would have reacted to being called a mother but things were
different. I turned and looked the suspect in the eye, he looked innocent.
The matatu stopped, the lady was still lost for words as she
checked her handbag that was wide open. I think she couldn’t even know if
anything had been stolen. The man next to me had turned and grabbed the suspect’s
collar. There was commotion and more passengers alighted and the matau was now
almost empty.
A young man came to our window and started hurling insults
at the man next to me. I roll the window up halfway. “Wewe wacha ujaluo, sisi tumeshinda hata serikali.” He said as two
others came to back him up. They insulted us and walked away like the
government could not do a thing.
I looked at the man next to me, and immediately cought his Bantu accent. So he is not a Luo, we
Luos have a way of speaking Kiswahili, his Kiswahili was too good for a Luo man
of his stature- but that was still an assumption. The young man who has just
walked away has admonished him to desist from Luoism.
I started talking to these two people about the incident. I
was now more interested than ever on their tribes. I opted to decode their
accents. The lady was definitely a Kikuyu; the man next to me came out a Kamba.
I could not get the tribe of the man who busted the thief, as he spoke less
after the drama settled so definitely he was not a Luo. According to the
‘highway gang’ these two men, who were not Luos had Luoism. T. Ndede came to mind and his tim Luo. So what is UJALUO?
Everything is Big and
vulgar in Luo Land
Oh my, don’t joke. If Ndede’s quip is taken literally then it
lacks juice. Wait until you were with a fine lady and you met Ndede, woe unto
you if she is not conversant with dholuo.
“Go and give her the Luo Act” Is all you would hear from him as you parted.
It hits you that everything in Luo is big, and can turn vulgar any time. In dholuo, every discussion can end up in
sex, including discussing fire and cat fish- kamongo.
Kisumu County should be the Texas of Kenya- Where Everything
is Big. Someone told me that unlike other towns, Kisumu has no, “Welcome To
Kisumu” billboard as you enter. May be if the County Government has put up some
but I doubt, they are living large. If you are travelling from Kericho, Vihiga
or Busia, and you want to know you have entered Kisumu, just look at the people
walking by the road side.
The moment you see ladies endowed with enough volumes behind
them. My cheeky Christian brother (name withheld) will say the Lord has blessed
their going out. Then you are in Kisumu County, no need for a billboard. It is
said that a Luo man must have bulging biceps. Lack of big arms for men is akin
to a Luo woman with a flat behind, it leads to low self esteem.
Say it as it is
Luos speak their mind without fear. We are known to be
whistle blowers, so Miguna Miguna was just being a typical Luo peeling his former
boss Raila Odinga’s mask. This is the ujaluo
these thieves meant when they told the man who sat next to me to shut up. Luos
are a democratic people. The government is called piny owacho in dholuo which
translates to- the people have spoken. It is in our nature to air our opinions.
Luos are known to love academics. This open mind culture of
see it as it is and say it as it is promotes learning and the desire for
knowledge.
True Artisans
Your typical best tailor, cobbler, carpenter, and mason may
be a Luo but we are more than that. In whatever a Luo does, he will be the fundi. Be it Barrack Obama with words,
Oginga Odinga with politics or Philip Ochieng’ with his lexical obsession with
the Queens English, we are fundis.
Perfection is at the core of Luoism. If that is Ujaluo, I am proudly in.
Luos have taste. Dresscode, furniture or name it. We can
dress smart at an affordable cost. When you give a Luo and ‘others’ Ksh. 1,000 each
and send them to buy second hand clothes in Gikomba Market, you will notice the
difference. It is not about the price, an eye for that good stuff is part of
the Luo Act.
But do we say
If you thought Luos hard-line stick to the rules is all
about being stubborn, you are wrong. It is our pride that makes us to shun
anything that may soil the lifestyle. Pride
makes us work hard at what we do; it is the same pride that gives us the guts
to tell you off on your face. BUT DO WE SAY.
It is only in Luo land where you can be put off with your
wealth. In other areas wealth may be a source of influence but not in Luo
Nyanza.
Regardless of what the busted thief meant by- Ujaluo, there is more to the Luo Lifestyle
than Raila Odinga, benga music and Gor Mahia.