Arise Kenya Arise....

Arise Kenya Arise....

Wednesday, October 17, 2012

Kibera si Nairobi; The Kibera Perfume


I recently encountered a man who left me holding my ribs to make sure they are not cracked. The tale of a man who came to Nairobi as an adult left me eagerly waiting for the chance to tap his story into my computer keyboard.



Here we go, this man had only watched Nairobi on TV and those days he claims our media houses only showed the good looking sides of Nairobi. To him Nairobi was the typical ‘green city in the sun’ that has been a figment of our imagination for long. The day he arrived in Nairobi his bubble was burst on his first night in an iron-sheet structure. He felt played but there was no one to blame, I have reasons to believe he was telling us this story as a self healing therapy.

The Morning After

He could not reconcile the picture he had of Nairobi in his mind and what he saw. I can imagine how he felt when he woke up that first morning. Too bad if it had rained and the small space in front of the house was covered with mud. A guy must have felt cheated, like a lady who woke up in a house belonging to a man she had sworn she will never give to his advances.  At this point, the morning after pill will never take away the mixed feelings.

The Kibera Perfume

He went ahead to tell us that when you board number 8 matatu’s to Kibera in the evening, you will be surprised by the expensive scent of perfumes from the commuters. You are bound to enjoy the ride as the conductors have also mastered their clientèle.

The music played will mirror the scent of the commuters. The stronger the scent, the more of soul, dance-hall  rhythm and blues are played. These are uptown sounds; Kibera residents are more inclined to roots reggae, and to some extent hip-hop and local urban music.

The shocker comes when you reach Yaya Centre or Prestige Plaza and the uptown side of commuters alight. You are left with the true, real and natural scent of Kiberans. You are now saying ‘Kwaheri Nairobi- see you tomorrow’ as you enter Kibera. The music will also be changed by the emotionally intelligent matatu crew.

This is a man I would like to probe more for tales from this side of town many people from Nairobi don’t know about. He made my day, and the people I was with may not know I chronicle my findings on Kenyan slums.

Oh yes, there is a big difference between Kibera and Nairobi. The simple one is scent, where as Kibera most people go natural, Nairobians have the power to determine how they would like to smell. Listening to tales from Kibera can leave you laughing to the core of your being.

Friday, September 14, 2012

Kibera si Nairobi Part 3: Kids, sex and family planning

The worst form of human rights abuse is to raise a child in a slum. I don't have a problem with the adults who chose to leave the comfort of rural life to seek the 'luxuries' our slums have to offer. In the time that I have watched and interacted with slum dwellers with my third backfired anthropological eye, I have seen the suffering of children, who go through it unknowingly.

 A pastor friend with a humour that was out of this world gave me a snippet of what slum life is . He was a part time pastor, doubling up as a driver as he looked after his flock in the Eastern side of Nairobi. He told me how he planted a church in Mukuru slums and lived there as the church grew. He left it to a young pastor he raised as he moved further east to a 'more affluent' neighbourhood.

Then came the punch line, in the five years he lived in this slum, he sired four children. He jokingly called it- "I had four accidents in bed." I laughed with him but at the back of my mind, I knew there was more to this story.

Take a walk in a slum or a low class housing estate. You are most likely to meet children of the same age and/or height playing together. If you follow closely, these children are neighbours.



According to my friend, when he went to bed which was as early as 8pm, he made love to his wife even if he had no plans to. This happened because the houses are made of iron sheets and the bed in the next room is most likely on the adjacent wall. When one person gets into the love making business, the man next door cannot afford to sleep, and the ripple effect is such that several babies may be born within days, nine months after this night.




 Baby Mama

The American term- baby mama must have had its roots in their slums or as they put it ‘projects.’ A girl from Kibera caught the eye of a friend; they fell in love and are happily married. He asked me to take him down there once and I saw many ‘hot chics.’ That environment can hide some beautiful stuff.

The denominator was that almost all these ladies, some barely a year into college while the rest were school drop outs had babies. Looking at the ages of the children, they gave birth in their last years in primary school. Let us say between twelve and thirteen years of age, when a girl gets into puberty- men are waiting to literary chapa ilale (The Nairobi slung for one night stands)

Combining the two stories above- reproductive health measures is complicated in the slums. Because most of the people can afford only one room, if the man next door can’t sleep, what about the children in the same room. They pick the sexual ‘undertones’ earlier than necessary.

By the time they get to puberty, they already know what they don’t know about sex. Here is a sexually charged environment and people without the means and will for proper reproductive health measures. I repeat, the worst form of human rights abuse is to let children grow up in slums.

There is no space left to play, so they either play along the slum alleys or inside the tiny houses. This exposes them to all sorts of abuse and infections.






A friend of mine called Tall gave me another good lead, the beautiful girls always end up with the bad boys. It is the bad boys who have money and the lifestyle every slum girl wishes for. It is made voluntary at first, but if the girl is adamant, she is forced into it.  It is a catch 22 situation for the girls, and may be a catch 23 (if it exists) for the boys. If you want the girls, get the money and crime is the easier way out.

To the men who decide to leave their families upcountry as they eke out a living in the city, it is not any better. The commercial sex work in the slums is as complex as it is simple. The women are always ready to lure a man, regardless of his age into their net for economic reasons as well as protection from errant men.

Condoms are a luxury to people who can’t afford food. Even if they had the money, if one needs it at night venturing out is risky. You have heard of people recycling condoms and all, yes, it is real.

For this reason, I support the efforts the government has put in to transform the slum environment and build highrise flats for Kibera dwellers. Getting the slum out of them will take time, but the new flats will have a positive effect on the social culture.

There are success stories from children who grew up in these slums. But the ratio of failures to success stories is still high. When a child grows up in the slum, there is a more likelihood, that he will end up in a slum somewhere.... We have to break the cycle!

Thursday, August 23, 2012

Kibera si Nairobi Part 2; The Road to Migingo..

This is the second series of my Kibera si Nairobi blogs, I get to Soweto. Named after the famous South West Townships of Johannesburg in South Africa, this part of Kibera is getting a facelift. I will follow and bring you updates as soon as the face keeps changing.


The only housing estate hosting a United Nations office is Kibera. So Soweto area, is to Kibera what Gigiri is to Nairobi.



In Nairobi, you can take a shower anytime, in Kibera you take a bath early in the morning or at night. I had to listen to a Tanzania Bongo Flava musician, cant remember his name, but I will call it the Oracles of shanty miseries to understand this. The artist sings about how one cannot take a shower during the day in a slum, he will be asked where he is going. All bathrooms are outside the house, or rather- the houses are not self-contaminated.  As I ventured into Soweto, I saw a man washing his feet, oh yes, he did not want anybody to know his mission.



Another joke I heard as I talked to Kiberans is that when a Lunje (Luhya) goes to look for a house in Kibera, he will check how far the posho mill is from the house, very important. So I got this pic to tell my lunje friends that they are welcome in Soweto.


Kibera citizens are not so thankful to the Prime Minister in Nairobi who claims to love them so much. We have been giving him our votes, so he decided to build for us flats in Soweto. Let me tell you the story, the inhabitants of Soweto were given money to move to Migingo across in Langata. This created space for another highrise flats project. Wait a minute- Kibera had its own flats long before some people thought of upgrading them, they upgraded themselves..


And this one...


Anyway, the next time you visit Soweto, these flats to the right will be complete...
 The road to Migingo
                                                   
Meanwhile, I will do my best to venture deep into the slum to bring you the stories you never knew about Kibera. There is a slum mentality that will take more than just upgrading settlements to change.

Kweli, Kibera si Nairobi....

Monday, August 6, 2012

Kibera si Nairobi; The road to Migingo...

Kibera or let me call it Kibra is a complex place to live in and even visit. The development industry (read NGOs) had told the whole world that Kibera is home to one million people, 2009 cencus put it at two hundred and fifty thousand. Reports had to be edited and grants revised but the truth was out, Kibera is a special place to the inhabitants and the interested parties.

One reason why I say Kibera is not Nairobi is because there is a new settlement called Migingo in Kibera. New because, there older ones come by the names Katwekera, Lindi, Makina, Mashimoroni, Laini Saba, Olympics, Ayany, Raila, Karanja and Soweto, where I fall but my neighbours will deny that we live in Kibera.

This is Saturday at 7:15 am, Kibera residents are streaming out of the Road to Migingo to go to Nairobi and look for work...


Then this is the road to my neighbourhood at about the same time 7:20 am where we all believe we don't live in Kibera,




we can afford an extra hour of sleep on Saturday because we dont walk to work like our 'hood mates.'


RIARA University tried to come to Kibera but shied off at the entrance...



The Mall; everything under one roof...

Even City Council knows; when you demolish illegal structures -all structures in Kibera are, there are some you dare not touch, but you can get as close as you can..


A street off the road to Migingo-


Maina Kageni and Mwalimu King'ang'i broadcast in Nairobi, in Kibera we dont have Kenya Dairy Association (sic) we buy our milk Live and Direct...


We also sell our water with a swagg..



Track with me, as I take the road to Migingo, to prove to you that Kibera si Nairobi..... Next week, I enter SOWETO......

Tuesday, July 31, 2012

Culture; our way out of tribalism to development...

I am a self confessed backfired anthropologist, backfired in the sense that I am interested in the area of study without formal training in it. I remember when I was studying a BSc. course, a local TV chanel aired a documentary on the Aborigines of Australia. Man, I followed the series yet I am not generally a TV person. I would then recount everything about it to my classmates the following day.

I am an extrovert who will mingle with people everywhere, from the matatu driver, mama mboga to an executive somewhere. My mind then tends to pick out social traits including the main features of their language. This came about as a result of being born and raised among communities that are not my own and so I grew up picking other peoples habits. When I was old enough to go to my rural home alone, I notice the difference and asked questions. That is how I ended up a backfired anthropologist.

Njonjo Kihuria in Weekend Star published on Saturday July 28/29 2012 writes about the uneasy calm among the Kikuyu living in Eldoret. I was not surprised, I interact with people at all low levels and so I have known that all is not well. I even wrote an open letter to Uhuru Kenyatta and William Ruto on my blog Political Rallies will not solve Land problems in the Rift Valley about the same.

Njonjo pens off with a punch on what I have always believed about in my heart. A sixty year old business man told him that cultural values and taboos might not allow the Kalenjin to walk the talk on peace and reconciliation. It boils down to culture, the imprint of our way of life that the 'white man's' religion, education and 'sophistication' has not been able to erode.

To solve our social problems and even develop our country; we must look at our cultures as ethnic entities then gear our people towards creating a Kenyan Culture. You will never do this from the ivory tower in Nairobi or from the podiums of political rallies. I read in the biography of former Singapore Prime Minister Lee Kuan Yew how he approached his country's development at independence by tapping into the Indians, Malay and Chinese- culture, fears, strengths and weaknesses. We all know where Singapore is today.

Kenyans of Asian and European descent have never felt Kenyan. No wonder some Kenyans in the social media fora were not impresses by David Dunford when he carried the Kenyan flag at the opening ceremony of 2012 London Olympics. They invest in Kenya then take their profits elsewhere because we have never fully embraced them.

Until we look at Kenya in the eyes of PLO Lumumba; "..give me the hard working mode of the Kikuyu, the loyalty of the Akamba, the athleticism of Kalenjin, the flair of the Luo...." -we will form another National Cohesion and Integration Commission- Reloaded, to solve our social issues.

I mentioned this in several blogs of mine, our fore fathers did it well and even came up with new social entities like how several tribes merged to form a luhya sub-tribe Kalenjin + Luo + Luhya = Tiriki. Another one is why Luos tend to walk to the cliff and are even ready to plunge in The Luo siege mentality in Gor Mahia fans. If we are to sort the mess in our social fabric, then we need to be proactive about our way of life.

Culture is our finger print, even those who claim they were born and brought up in Nairobi can never escape this. We have to decode the fingerprints of the units that make up Kenya and engage them from their point of view. If you understand where someone is coming from, you stop fearing him then you enter into a realm of discussion and not arguments.

Like Nelson Mandela said, "we are all born loving, we just learn to hate." The hardest thing I have realized at a personal level is to unlearn, I can learn anything but to unlearn a habit or way of life, is a fight that one has to fight from the depth of his soul. Our culture, is written in our souls, we never think about it, we are just who we are.

Good work Mr. Njonjo, and may NCIC begin to look at social integration in a new light. KENYA ni KWETU.

Tuesday, July 24, 2012

Are tears the secret to Luo men’s romantic prowess?



I am not a fan of radio but I confess to mixed feelings on ‘Maina and King’ang’I in the Morning’ show on Classic FM. I will appreciate that the professional chemistry between the two is out of this world. There presentation is top notch but I always have a problem with the content. One day when I listened to them speak about men and tears, this is after President Kibaki had shed a tear or two during an Equity Bank function. 

People may have been shocked when Miguna Miguna revealed that the enigmatic Raila Amollo alias Agwambo shocked his aides when he cried uncontrollably. Miguna must have thought that this would portray Raila in bad light but from the responses I have read in the media, it seems it is good if men cry once in a while. I cried a while back and since then I have learned to master my emotions.

Men also cry, but the society has made us believe it is wrong or a show of weakness if a man cries. It is even known in some cultures that men cry in the loo. Then again, when you see a man cry, know that something has touched his heart, for good or worst.

This is not about mean and tears but another take from my cap as a backfired anthropologist. I have come to note that our cultures shape our personalities as individuals. Luos tend to be extroverts and emotional, Luhyas are reserved and loyal, while Kikuyu men are introverted but shrewd. Does culture have a say in our personalities?



I know psychologists have gone to great lengths to group people in the introvert/extrovert groups and even further down into intuitive, thinkers and so forth. I will not dwell into that but will look at our social groups with a positive stereotypical lens. This is in my efforts to make Kenyans understand our diversity and embrace each other because what you will not fear what you understand.

I have spent time with the Maasai from Trans Mara down to Loitoktok to the South. The Maa men are reserved and respectful but will turn into a fit of anger on provocation. There are exceptions to the rules so don’t be harsh to shoot down my point of view.

We pick a lot from our environment, so genetics determines who we are but who we become is a product of our environment. This has made us turn to the default setting that is the stereotype associated with our ethnic entities.

I don’t have the answers here but will ask questions. It seems we are always inclined to adopt the acceptable traits in our families and societies and shun what our societies disregard. This in turn forms the basis of looking down on other people who are different from us.

For example Luhyas detest vocal, loud and robust people. People like Miguna Miguna will be exceptions among the Luhyas. The traits that tend to be appreciated are modesty and reserved nature. It is only among the Idakho and Isukha where you meet passionate people like Boni Khalwale.
Back to Luos and I can remember in 2008 when some ODM councilors broke ranks with their party to vote with PNU. Luo councilors were shedding tears before cameras when it was evident that their candidate was going to lose. What makes Luos so emotional?

The Kikuyu tend to have aggressive ladies and reserved men. There are exceptions though but the Michukis are not common among the Kikuyu and the few have been forced to knock off the rough edges. In the contrary, the ladies tend to be more outgoing and extroverted.

Luos are extroverted and robust a character that gets to cantankerousness (that is another word for quarrelsome, but do I say) on one extreme and a sanguine on the other. On the contrary we are also good artists, sportsmen and craftsmen; traits that are associated with melancholy and the keenness of introverts.



Then again, men who cry are said to be in touch with their emotions. Is this what gives Luo men the ‘kings of romance’ tag? The passion of extroverts and the thoughtfulness of introverts combine to make Luos men who they are? They will internalize and express themselves in ways that make the fair sex blush.

So when Raila cries and Miguna bursts out ‘come baby come’ is it just a trait that makes Luo men the most loving and lovable on one hand and unpredictable on the other?



The culture sensitive part of my brain is still processing all these, I will appreciate your comments may be in future It will crystallize in my mind and I will pen my findings. 

Meanwhile, let me put on my other cap, gossip about football. @ www.stuttistics.blogspot.com


Tuesday, July 17, 2012

Miguna Miguna; may the true reformer please stand up




Miguna Miguna was having his time in the sun then suddenly we hear he was last seen at JKIA on his way to Canada. The law of natural justice demands that I take his allegations with a pinch of salt until such a time when all parties have been heard. My take on Miguna is a man with immense intellectual prowess without a corresponding depth of character to go with it.

I will take time to go through the book to separate the sheep from the goat. Meanwhile Raila and his team have PR work to do. Miguna comes out as a brag, a bully who can’t keep his mouth shut.

The main jab of his allegations is meant to blow off Raila’s reform credentials. The ODM’s leader reform credentials speak for itself, but where did the rains start beating him or his team? There is one thing important in politics, numbers- in terms of people and cash.

Where am I going with all these? Politics being a big money business tends to lock out the common man. The true reformer is always a broke man who may never make it big in politics. To balance the act of being true to ones ideals and still navigate the messy waters of politics is something that few have succeeded in.

To quote Miguna; Otieno Kajwang’ quipped that he behaves like the Mau Mau who when they were told Kenya had got independence did not believe and walked back into the forest. This analogy summarizes what a Mr. Kinyanjui told me many years back (I am growing old) that where my interests are served the interest of the people I serve are also served. It is a thin line indeed between a true reformer and an anti-reformer.

In Long Walk to Freedom one gets a picture of a Mandela who was always broke, representing people in court pro bono. Looking at Mandela behind the picture of Julius Malema; the embattled ANC Youth League President who is a millionaire at the age of 33. You get the drift between the Oliver Tambo generation of politicians and the current generation. The younger leaders who served terms with Mandela in Roben Island Prison, the likes of Tokyo Sexwale, President Jacom Zuma among others have since amassed wealth and turned ANC into a den of corruption.

When the struggle for freedom or reforms takes long as it did for Muslim Brotherhood in Egypt since 1928, many things happen. The brave soldiers die because they take the battle to the opponents. Their families may live to hate the liberation struggle just like the family of Dedan Kimathi when they are meant to sacrifice more after the death of the liberation hero. 

The remaining soldiers come in many sheds, the committed few, who have inscribed the struggle in their hearts, will remain standing when victory is finally won. The majority joyride waiting for a kill, but they can’t be thrown out because it is still a game of numbers. These are the people who bridge the difference between the two ideologues leaving a thin line between modern day reformers and non-reformers.

Raila has had to change in his quest for the Kenyan presidency. He even worked with Moi, that is not the Raila of the eighties, in working with Moi, it did not mean he approved of his misrule, but he used it as a means to an end. He has had to work with people he may not have been comfortable working with. They may have watered down his reform credentials, but as someone told me, sometimes you have to lose battles to win the war.

Reform minded or transformational leaders in most cases never care about wealth. When they die of ‘enemy’s fire,’ their families are left in destitution. It is the conditions of the Adungosi, Anyona (George), Kaggia (Bildad) and Chelagat (Mutai) families’ that make the current day reformer to waver between the ideals of the struggle and selfish ambitions.

The Kenyan group of ‘young turks’ who spearheaded 2nd liberation in the nineties turned into hungry hyenas upon getting into power in 2002. The very people who used to ‘hustle’ became instant millionaires. In a country where people with means- regardless of how you get it are revered- every nose is always sniffing for a quick buck.

Kenyans make matters worse by asking for ‘facilitation fees’ from political aspirants. Our politics has become too expensive that politicians must work extra hard to remain relevant. The rest who have political ambitions but still cling to principles may never get the chance to go to parliament. A principle is not a principle until it costs you money.

Some of our politicians may have the best of intentions to diligently serve and give Kenya their best. As they do this, their social status changes to fit into their new found titles. When five years elapse, they stare defeat at the hands of selfish anti-reformers who are always wealthier with old-money connections. To beat this network needs money and you can never make such money in a day.

Have you asked yourself how George Aladwa has succeeded in making City Hall quite without the evidence of improved service to Nairobi residents? Under his watch, the councilors from both sides of the political divide are 'feasting' unlike in the days of Majiwa.

The reformer-turned-vulture may be worse off than the real anti-reformers. May be we should start electing people on their character and social strengths rather than deep pockets. This is a culture that must be fought from the top and finished off at the bottom. May be our reformers will keep to the straight and narrow, meanwhile- very few can pass the acid test. One man said just because you don’t care about corruption, does not mean corruption does not care about you.

Gone are the days when Martin Shikuku, JM Kariuki, George Anyona and James Orengo were elected to parliament without bribing voters. Today they would be left standing with their eloquence as a ‘Mr. Money Bags’ gets into parliament.

 It is Kenyans who will decide to lower the cost of doing political business in Kenya. I have never known a politician (may be a rookie) who used his hard earned money in political campaigns. This explains why our politicians –even sons of peasants are billionaires in their fourties something that takes businessmen two generations to achieve.

I am not trying to defend Raila or pour water on Miguna Miguna’s book. I hope more people will have the guts to give us a candid glimpse into their times in the corridors of power. 


Until we reduce the price of doing politics, the Miguna Migunas of this world will never miss fodder for their next book.